Dawn's Coat Plan

I am planning on a wool coat from a Burda pattern. I haven't tried a Burda envelope pattern so I hope they are similar to the Burda WOF sizes. My worry is that they have been "americanized" with more ease. Some of you have done both so do I need to worry? Usually I make a size 36 in Burda WOF. I am really excited about making a coat with your help. I made a wool coat before but was not that happy with it. It was totally me, not the pattern. Here is the review. It is the same pattern that Erica B. is going to use.

Here is the Burda pattern I plan to use. It is 8022. I will use a wool flannel maybe? I don't have fabric for a muslin yet. I'm going to do view B with the belt.

Linda - My coat choice

Here is my choice for the coat sew along. Burda 7855.

I am making the short version without the band insert. I want to use this fabric from Gorgeous Things Fabrics. Or possibly the cashmere wool too. I just don't know what I would do if I made a major mistake on the more expensive fabric. Still I bought a cashmere scarf this past winter and it was the warmest thing I have ever worn, so I am still considering it. At that price, it is still much less expensive than buying a cashmere coat. What do you all think?

I also want to make a jacket too. I love this jacket from BWOF 10/06. It is lined too, I think. I have a deep barn red wool in my stash that I bought for this pattern. I hope to keep the momentum going and get this one done in the same time frame too.

random replies

Charity, that looks like a really ambitious project.
And, it reminds me of the embroidered coat from Norske Strikkedesign.
The basic jacket is knit, then most of the patterning is done with embellishments.
See one here by Tricotfolk
I have the book, (it's OOP and highly coveted and expensive) and I'll be happy to get it out to take a better look at how they're making the embellishments. I seem to remember reading it, back when I first got the book, and much of that outline is done with chain stitched yarn that is then appliqued.
Have you ever done any needlefelting? There are hand punchers, and now a couple of SM manufacturers are making embellishing machines. Bernina has an attachment for freehand needle felting too that will fit all their machines with oscillating hooks.

The sketch you've done also reminds me of some of the most incredible best designs from the last winter issue of the Spanish fashion mag I have, !Hola!
I'll have to get my scanner hooked up and show you some of them.
Also, do you have the book on Fine Embellishment Technique by Jane Conlon?

Sally, can you order a swatch of the fabric you're considering? I've never seen a wool/linen blend. I've seen and worked with the fabric called Silk n wool, that I believe is something like a 54/46% blend, and is suiting weight, that is fabulous.
Linen has no yarn memory, and wool has quite a lot, so I'm really curious as to what this blend looks and feels like. Usually, when mills blend fibers, it's to get the best properties of both, and I'm not sure I understand what it is that they are looking for with this blend.
It could be wonderful, could be not-so-much. Because there is so much wool relative to the linen, it could tailor quite nicely. What style coat are you considering? And how much warmth do you need?
My recommendation would be to get a swatch, even if you need to order 1/8 yd.

Sigrid, you're posing the classic dilemma: fashion vs function. I think what coat you decide upon ultimately depends on how cold it gets where you are and what you need from your coat. The Vogue with the open collar is very trendy, and will probably look dated in two seasons. Is that an important consideration?

Jenny, I'm to the point where I wish American patterns would leave the seam allowances off. I think you'll love working with your Marfy pattern.

Erica, those will be two stunning coats. I think we're both channeling some of the same design inspiration sources. Independently we're coming up with some of the same designs. I know when you emailed your original choices to me that the MK jacket was on my list for the red cashmere already, and I've got that NL dress that you just made in my pile. Can only say that I love what we're both coming up with.

KarenT, your coat is going to be classy. Love your fabric.

Alethia - Getting Started

Thanks Marji for taking the initiative to start this sew along. This is my first attempt to sew a coat. I must say it is a challenge for me, one that i am very excited about. I like the fact that you have set goals for each month so that each time can be accomplish in plenty of time.

I need to decide on a pattern. I know that i want it to be a dress coat, probably ankle lenght. In terms of choosing a lining , I am leaning towards satin lining.

Sally - Wool/Linen Blend?? And the beginning of a plan!

I just posted my potential patterns and fabrics on my blog at sallysews, if you'd like to look!

OK all you fabric mavens out there! I found a lovely fabric that is 80% wool and 20% linen. I've never used this combination before. Does anyone else have comments about it? How do you think it would work for coating? It is listed in the coating fabric section, but how does it actually look and behave?

Thanks for the advice!

CharityAK - My Tentative Sewing Plan

This is my first tentative plan for my Evening Art Coat. I have several things I'm still deciding. Input welcome.

1) Wool coating or wool flannel/twill: Wool coating is more practical here in Alaska, but would the appliques be a nightmare on such a heavy fabric.

2)How much embellishment: Should I do the collar? Should the border turn the corner and extend up the front opening?

3)What fabric for the appliques: Batiks? Wool Felt? Funky, brightly patterned prints?

4)What is the best way to apply the velvet edging to reduce bulk?

5)I have a brightly patterned plaid poly taffeta I'd like to use for the lining strictly from a design point of view, but am worried about its sewability and the rustling noise. Should I stick with flannel backed satin which eliminates the need for interlining?

6)Hem length: Debating between just above the knee (longer than the pattern) or long, almost cloak length?



Charity

Erica B.'s Plans!

I'm planning a two coats, both inspired by Michael Kors!

Butterick 5145

I'll be making this one in a black and ivory houndstooth. I'm using the stand collar and the car coat length (view B).

Vogue 2873

I've had this pattern in my collection for a while now. I plan to make this one in perhaps a lovely orange wool.

Sigrid - My thoughts on a coat

Though May is in the timeline the period for gathering materials, for me it's the decision of what to make. I'm one of those who have to buy the materials for the coat, so deciding on which coat to make is the first thing for me.

I'm not an experienced seamstress when it comes to coats. I made my first coat in many many years (a Marfy pattern) last year, and in the end didn't wear it that much at all.

Looking for a pattern for a winter coat now very much reminded me of Carolyn's post of this week about a magazine that in the May issue had Fall fashion as a feature.

To the matter at hand. BWOF did have a few coats that I like, but they were all in the plus-size range and I don't want to start with downsizing a pattern.

I have Vogue 8465 and today ordered Butterick 4665. For the Vogue pattern I see the same problem as Shannon described: the neckline is so open, how do you wear this? For both I consider the short version.

What do you all think?

The Butterick pattern	The Vogue pattern

Jenny - my plan

I'm very excited to join my first sew along! I've been wanting to make a coat for a while now, and this will hopefully give me the jumpstart and timetable I need to get it done by fall. I already have a plan...

I'm going to use this wool flannel coating fabric that I recently purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics. It doesn't feel very flannel-y to me. It has more of a little pile, and I love it!

...and I plan to use this Marfy pattern. I love the slightly different collar, and that neckline is just begging me for a fabulous knit scarf or three. My biggest concern is the prospect of possibly having to alter the shoulders, since the shoulders and collar all look to be one piece. I usually don't have to do much altering, but I've never made a Marfy before.

This will be my first Marfy attempt as well as my first coat, so it should be interesting. If you're not familiar with Marfy patterns, they come with the pieces already cut out, but there are minimal markings on the pieces, there are no seam allowances, and no directions. I will definitely have to make my first muslin with this project.

I'm off to order the pattern and search for the perfect lining and buttons!

Another Source for Linings

Marji asked that I post this source for coat linings and interlinings:

David Chadick
Rosen & Chadick Fabrics
New York, NY
800-225-3838

Ann of Gorgeous Things will back me up on this: David is possibly the nicest, most helpful person in the garment district. And he really knows his stuff. When I was in his store on Saturday he was helping a number of people with suit linings and giving out tailoring advice. I bought black flannel for my coat's interlining at Rosen & Chadick. He has gorgeous coating fabrics if you're still in the market; he'll be happy to send you swatches. And it wouldn't hurt to tell him you're a PR member and see if he'll give you a discount.

KarenT - My Plans Thus Far

This is a quick post while I wait for the iron to heat up! I'm getting really revved up by the plans that are appearing daily. It didn't take me long to figure out what I'm going to do, as I've been looking at this pattern for a while and trying to decide how to make it.


I like the collar and length on the right, the draped collar is interesting but impractical for my life. I'm in and out of seatbelts all the time, and this just would be a fussy hazard! I like standup collars, though, and it is loose enough to tuck a scarf down in there. I don't care for the sleeves in that view, however, so I am making the sleeves seen in the left and center view. I'm debating about making the longer length, but I think the knee length is more needed in my closet. I'm not a belter either, as I lose them or get tangled up, so I'll probably leave that off as well.

My fabric:

This is a piece of wool/silk blend I've had for an undetermined period of time. I'm ashamed to admit that my stashing is so out of control that I have no idea where or when I bought this. It is 60 inches wide, and I have five yards, so I'm thinking I can also make a skirt or slacks. It is not quite as grey as it appears here, more of a dark cream with black and dark brown bits in it. It is a mid-weight, so it drapes and should tailor well. I have not decided on a lining, I'll internet shop this weekend, but I'm thinking a twill to mirror the herringbone a bit.

Off to work! Marji, I hope your family emergency wasn't too serious. K

Lisa - Adventures with wool flannel

My adventure with wool flannel begins with Vogue 8346, view A. I really like this pattern and wanted to make the long version. However, I felt that the coat would be quite heavy on my shoulders & pocket book. I have ordered the wool flannel from Candlelight Valley Fabrics. I have not decided what lining to use, so I was happy to read the post about lining. Thanks.

I am very excited about the sew-a-long. Please bear with me. This is the first time for me to use blogger!

Shannon - My Coat

Like Marji, I hope to make more than one coat before next fall, but I have yet to decide on all the patterns. The coat I am sure about making is the one below.

Burda WOF 9/2007 - 104
I will call this my "Ode to Tany" coat. I still remember the first time I saw the coat that Tany made - I was beyond smitten. I knew I had to have one of my own.

I have always wanted a funky and fabulous leopard print coat. Now, thanks to Tany for the inspiration and to Marji for the push in the right direction, I should be workin' my animal magnetism by early fall of this year. Rowr!

Pattern suggestion for ChristineB

Hello everyone!

ETA: Here is the line drawing and a couple of pictures. I really like this coat, it has a very classic line which I'm looking for to use my cashmere/wool coating. This is a very nice issue, packed with beautiful designs.

I'm still deciding on a pattern so I have been looking through my Burda's WOF. When I saw ChristineB's post I remembered that one of the patterns I'm considering has a bib. It is model 101 and 102 from the September 2005 issue. The archives don't go that far back so I will post a picture later. The design has a notched collar and in-seam pockets as well as princess seams and two piece sleeves.

playing with photos for ChristineB's choices

Christine, I took the liberty of playing with your pictures a bit.
To my eye, 3 of the styles you're looking at are embodied in the basic pattern draft, with minor changes, of the basic patterns V7979 and V7978.
That Burberry one, all the patterns I have or can come up with that have raglan sleeves are old OOP.



Just a quick question:
Is anyone looking at Marfy? Knip Mode?

ChristineB - Decisions, decisions...

I'm still deciding on what to make, but could use some help. I've been looking at Fall 2008 RTW style trends, and I came up with a bunch (30+) of coats I'd like to replicate. I've been able to whittle down that number to about five or six contenders. Since there are quite a few pictures, I've put them up on my own blog so as not to take up valuable real estate here. If anyone's interested in checking out what I'm leaning towards at this moment, mosey on over, take a gander, and let me know what you think,'K? I'll be sure to post my final decision here for everyone to see.

Michelle L.'s Project Plan

Marji's post inspired me to make an actual project plan, with images of the fabric and the pattern.

I will be making Vouge 7988, view C. It is for my fiance; I never make anything for him, so he was actually pretty excited to pick out his fabric. We got a black wool coating with a very subtle basketweave. You really have to squint to see the texture. For the lining, a silk twill. Both came from Fashion Fabrics Club; the coating was $14.00 per yard, and the silk twill we caught on sale for $5.00 a yard.

The wool is currently at the dry cleaner's being cleaned and steamed. They are used to me dragging in yards and yards of fabric for pre-cleaning or half-finished garments for them to block the seams on, so they are very good about doing just what I need for them to.

I am really excited about getting started on this project!!

Marji - My Project plans

I know that most everyone will be making One coat - I also know that I'm on a mission to sew up some of my really special pieces, and I'm using this sew-along as an excuse to do that and satisfy my over-achiever tendencies. Therefore - I've got 3 on the drawing board to muslin up.

My Planned projects for this sew-along.

Using the Vintage Molyneux pattern and the felted wool from Ungaro that I have in stash, I plan to make one long coat. This pattern features an inseam pocket (with flap) and a roll collar. There is an interesting detail here in that the princess seam notches out toward the side seam at the pocket level.

In order to use a fabulous piece of red cashmere from The Wool House in Toronto, that's been in my stash since Sept of 2005, I'm planning to make this from Michael Kors. I will make real welt pockets. Can't imagine that MK would have been content to sew flaps on a jacket. And even if he is, I'm not.

And the last number on the agenda is this fabulous outfit by Guy Laroche. I broke my no fabric rule and ordered the wool/cashmere blend from Gorgeous Fabrics, because it's a perfect match to the green based plaid wool that's been in my stash since the dinosaurs roamed the earth - sometime around 1985. I'll make the wide leg pants in the plaid and use the Cashmere blend Syrah coating for the jacket.

Between the 3 I should have most techniques covered.

I see on the poll on the sidebar that 75% of those who've answered the question there already have the fabric in their stash.
So, show us what you're planning, we'd love to see.

Sandra - Pattern Picked Out

Hi Marji, thanks again for putting so much time and effort into this. I am so looking forward to this project. I will be making McCall's M5513 for my 14-year-old niece.

I'm thinking a wool flannel because it needs something with some drape to it for the bubble skirt. However I want it to be warm (I will be lengthening the sleeve to full length) so I will definitely be needing underling/interlining advice!

(E.T.A. That Donna Karan coat pattern of yours is TO DIE FOR! Must find a way....)

Thank you Marji

Thank you Marji for organizing this project. I am the queen of procrastination. If I start a project I don't finish or I never start it. I pull out the pattern and fabric, look at it, and go find something else to do. I am trying hard to root out the procrastination gene and get on with life.

I have never made a coat. I do have a jacket cut out...does that count??? LOL!!! I have, somewhere in my sewingroom, a piece of gorgeous red wool coating purchased from EOS a couple of years ago. I know I want a red coat, but I'm just not completely sure about the pattern. I do have several of the coat patterns Marji listed. I am leaning towards the Simplicity Threads pattern as I saw this made up on Ann (Gorgeous Things) a few years ago at a PR Weekend, or I may choose the last Vogue pattern listed. (the one with the notched or standup collar). I think this would be a good time to learn how to make a notched collar.

Now I have to work on gathering the players for my coat. At the same time I'm participating in the June Capsule at SG. And, I'm taking a fitting class at PR with Shannon. I will be one very busy lady in June.

Thank you again Marji. I'm very excited to be participating with all you knowledgeable sewists.